Cool region (cold winters and mild summers): ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, bentgrass Transitional region (hot summers and cold winters): Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, zoysiagrass, thermal blue, perennial ryegrass Warm region (hot summers and mild winters): Bermuda grass, buffalo grass, zoysiagrass, centipede grass Search for a grass zone map to see where your region falls. In general, most of the upper U. S. is the cool region, while the southernmost area is the warm region. In between these two areas is the transition region. [2] X Research source
If you’re in a transition zone, read the seed variety on the back of the package. It’s either a warm or cool variety, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions about when to plant it. Pay attention to your local forecast before you plant. You don’t want to plant before a heatwave or period of frost is about to hit.
If you’re not up for testing the soil yourself, collect a soil sample and send it off to your county’s extension office. For a fee, they’ll test your soil and send you the results. If you’re not concerned that your soil’s pH is off, feel free to skip this step.
If your soil’s pH is way over 8 pH, it’s very alkaline and you should probably try aluminum sulfate or sulfur. You can find these soil-amending products at most hardware stores, garden supply stores, or online.
If you’d like to remove old sod before you sow grass, rent a sod cutter. Cut through the sod, roll it up, and remove it before you loosen the now-exposed soil.
If the soil is very clay-heavy, add about 1 inch (2. 5 cm) of sand across the entire planting area before you rake it. The sand helps with drainage and causes the soil to dry out faster. If you don’t have a lawn roller, you can simply rake over the area. A lawn roller is useful if you’re trying to grow grass over an area that has molehills or deep ridges in the soil.
It’s better to use too little grass seed than too much. If you put too much grass seed down, the seedlings will have to fight for nutrients and you’ll end up with thinner grass.
Plan on spreading 1 1⁄2 to 2 pounds (0. 68 to 0. 91 kg) of nitrogen fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet. It’s a good idea to wear protective gloves when handling the fertilizer. If you’ve got a friend helping you, one of you can sow the grass seed while the other spreads the fertilizer.
Don’t spread more than 1⁄4 inch (0. 64 cm) of material since you don’t want to make it hard for the seeds to sprout.
Water in the morning since less moisture evaporates early in the day.
Ideally, you’ll wait as long as you can, so the grass seed really gets a chance to grow.
Adjust the blade on your lawnmower, so you only cut 1/3 of the grass height.
